TOOLS & MAINTENANCE
BBR Spoke Wrench
SERVICE MANUAL
OIL: Honda HP4
Good Premium Oil.
Carried at Honda Dealers
Honda HP Chain Lube
Carried at Honda Dealers
Cable Luber
HP Tools Tire Gauge 0-30psi
Master Link Pliers
NGK IRIDIUM SPARK PLUG INFO
Click to Enlarge
FMF Pipe Plug
Keeps water out of pipe while you’re washing the bike.
HP Tools Tire Lever
Obviously you need a decent set of the basic tools such as a metric ratchet set, combination wrenches, screw drivers, pliers, etc. For ratchets and wrenches I happen to like Craftsman tools because they are good quality and they come with a lifetime guarantee, but buy what ever brand you like. Beware of cheapo ratchet sets like some auto parts stores sell. They will wear out quickly and start to round of your nuts and bolts. You will also need some specialized tools do some of the work correctly.
SPECIALTY TOOLS:
CHAIN BREAKER ($25):
If your going to change the chain on a Honda CRF50 you will need one of these. The new chain comes with a master link and has to be cut to the correct size.
TIRE LEVERS ($20):
Needed to change the tires, at least 2, 3 is better. I got a couple of spoon type levers like the Motion Pro and HP tools. Use a lubricant to aid in changing (degreaser works).
TORQUE WRENCH ($45-$100):
A decent Torque Wrench is a MUST if you want to do any serious work. Most nuts and bolts have a specific torque value they are supposed to be tightened to as stated in the SERVICE MANUAL, see our new Torque Values page. Another good thing about a torque wrench is it can just be used as a large socket handle for large or tight nuts and bolts like axle bolts.
There are more tools shown below that are necessary for the discussed maintenance items...
CRF50 CATEGORIES
WASH AND LUBE: After every ride I like to hose the bike down (use a pipe plug), dry it off with shop towels (and a compressor if you have one) then lube everything with WD40. Spray it on all moving parts like the peg pivots, brake levers etc. If you spray some on the (cool) engine it will clean up easier next time you ride. Re-lubricate the chain.
PLASTICS: The plastics are going to get scuffed up after the inevitable falls. After cleaning, a little Armor All will hide the scratches and bring the shine back. I have seen plastic refurbishing kits where you lightly sand the scratches and apply a special polish but I haven’t used it personally so I can’t vouch for it’s effectiveness.
TIRE PRESSURE: The tires need to be checked and filled regularly. Most 10 inch tires are supposed to be inflated to around 15-18p.s.i. If you’re going to ride in very soft or wet conditions you may want to go a little lower. Be aware that the tires will loose pressure when the bike sits for a long period of time and it is difficult to tell unless you put a gauge on them. I like a 0-30p.s.i. gauge ($17) as opposed to a 0-60p.s.i. for increased accuracy and reading ease. 15p.s.i. is in the middle.
CHAIN MAINTENANCE: The chain needs to be lubricated very often. This will greatly increase both chain and sprocket life. I use Honda’s HP chain lube but any good brand such as Bel-Ray, PJ1 or Silkolene will do. I lubricate before and after every ride, especially after washing the bike. Also if the chain gets really gunked up you may want to degrease it first then re-lubricate.
AIR FILTER SERVICE: The air filter needs to be cleaned and re-oiled on a regular basis. If you ride in dusty or wet conditions you probably want to clean it after every ride. If it doesn’t get too dirty you can go a few rides between service. Just remember this is how the motor breathes and if the filter gets really clogged it can degrade performance. Both the K&N and the Twin Air filter have a similar service method. Soak with cleaner, rinse with water and let dry completely. When dry, saturate with the CORRECT filter oil (see AIR FILTER Section).
OIL CHANGES: Changing the oil is the best way to extend the life of the engine. Honda recommends changing the oil after the first 100 miles then every 600 miles. Since a dirt bike obviously doesn’t have an odometer you can go by hours ridden, how many times it’s been ridden or as I do how much time (months) it has been since the last oil change. I typically change the oil about every four to six months. When I did change the oil for the first time I switched to Honda’s HP4 premium oil (GN4 is the regular grade). Honda recommends 10W-40 for average temperatures with an API-SG rating with no molybdenum additives. When you change the oil it will require 0.6 quarts (0.57L) to refill. Torque the drain bolt to 18 lb/ft.
How To: Run the engine until it reaches operating temperature. Remove the dipstick. Place a drain pan under the engine and carefully loosen the drain bolt. Let it drop onto the drain pan and let the oil drain out. When it stops, rock the bike slowly back and forth to get as much out as possible. Re-install the drain bolt and torque to 18 lb/ft. Pour .6 quarts (I use a graduated funnel/hose) of oil into the filler hole. Re-install dipstick and check level. Done!
SPARK PLUGS: The spark plug doesn’t have to be changed often unless you suspect fouling is causing trouble. I did replace the stock plug after a few months with an NGK Iridium plug just to be on the safe side and put a better plug in it. Honda recommends CR6HSA (NGK) for normal use, CR5HSA (NGK) for use in cold weather and CR7HSA (NGK) for extended high speed use. DO NOT use the wrong plug for your application. The proper gap is 0.024-0.028in. (0.60-0.70mm).
VALVE ADJUSTMENT: Recommended after the first 100 miles then every 600 miles. You will need a special feeler gauge and a special tappet wrench pictured to the right (the tappet has a 3mm square drive head) to do this properly. Remove the left side crankcase cover. Rotate the flywheel so the “T” lines up with the index mark. The piston has to be at the top of the compression stroke. To check this try to move the rocker arms, if they are tight (the valves are open) rotate the flywheel 360 degrees and line up the marks again. First loosen the lock nut. Using a .002in (.05mm) feeler gauge snug down the tappet (not too tight) then re-tighten the lock nut. Do the intake and the exhaust valve.
OIL FILTERS: Honda recommends cleaning the oil strainer screen and centrifugal filter (both inside the crack case) every 1200 miles. I’ll try to discuss this when I do it but until then I highly recommend you get the SERVICE MANUAL if you want to do this. It has detailed instructions and photos. The centrifugal filter is especially difficult to do. MOTOSPORT carries replacement filters and all the OEM parts you might need to do the job.
SPOKES: The spokes don’t come loose that easily. I just check for loose ones once in a while and tighten with a spoke wrench so it’s snug but not overly tight. You don’t want to get the wheel out of round so don’t go crazy unless you put the wheel on a truing stand.
CABLE LUBRICATION: It’s hard to tell if your cables need lubrication if they’re not binding, so it’s more of a preventive maintenance thing. I have the tool and haven’t used it yet but probably should. To lubricate the cables you need a cable luber tool ($9, see right column). You must remove the cable from the brake lever/throttle, attach the lube tool and inject cable lube or WD40 then re-attach the cable.
TEXT AND IMAGES COPYRIGHT PROJECT CRF50 2008
HONDA CRF50 MAINTENANCE
RECOMMENDED PREVENTATIVE AND SCHEDULED MAINTENANCE ITEMS
